The Solar Fairy would grab food as it floated by, so I was not worried about him eating, although at the two-week mark, I needed to make a decision to remove him. At the day mark he started to come out and the other wrasses passively checked him out, but there was no aggression. I think he realized they were not a threat and all this hiding was just silly!
Who knows the mind of a fairy wrasse! Okay, look cute and fluttery and fairyish! The mistake I made was adding the Whipfin Fairy Wrasse last. This fish was so freaked out; it enlisted in a carpet surfing competition! I did get rid of the Velvet Fairy Wrasse after the Lubbocki jumped ship, however there were no bite marks or wounds, so I assumed he just ran out of water depth trying to get away from the Yellow-Streaked demon Velvet Fairy!
Interestingly, I did have a Harlequin Tuskfish who never paid the other wrasses any attention. The Solar Fairy Wrasse had no problem with the smaller and more peaceful fairy wrasses yet could hold its own with the larger fairy wrasses. I am guessing he was not much of a threat, but his size kept them at bay. The second set of wrasses came after a tank crash, which occurred while I was away for 2 weeks. At any rate, I had decided to add several wrasses at one time.
I already had another Solar Fairy Wrasse in the tank of course! The only issue was that the Lubbocki Fairy Wrasse did jump out of the tank, so I decided not to add any more of the smaller, more peaceful wrasses with the more aggressive larger wrasses. The Temmincki Fairy Wrasse was spectacular and in charge.
Got stuck in the cookie jar. I have never experienced this, specifically, but have seen minor mouth injuries heal on otherwise healthy fish. I have also seen more problematic injuries not heal. Hi Al, Thanks for the reply. My little Six Line was doing well in spite of his injury and I had just gotten some meds and food to try to nurse him through recovery when I found him dead in the tank. I had really hoped he would make it as he lived a few weeks post injury.
He was an incredibly entertaining little guy! Hi Paul, thank you for sharing. That is a bummer. These are very cool fish, but can be aggressive and problematic, as you point out.
I love watching them. I always have a mandarin, a tail spot blenny, dracula goby pair with a pistol shrimp, cardinal or two, firefish, and an assortment of other gobies. So the six-line is always my most aggressive. With both, they started off peaceful and would cruise the tank, occasional just hanging out next to other fish, watching them.
After about a year or so with each wrasse, they because aggressive and bullied the gobies and blenny, so they would not come out to eat. I own a fish trap and sold them each after they became aggressive. They are easy to trap, because of their curious nature. Kevin, thank you so much for sharing your experiences there. Appreciate your sharing here, as advice to anyone looking to learn more about this fish.
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. The popular and sometimes pugnacious six line wrasse. Regards, Al. Thanks, Pam. Hi Pam, Thanks for the great comment and for sharing your experiences with the 6-line and the Mandarin.
Hi Pam, thanks for sharing your experiences there! Very sad. Pam, So Sorry to hear of your loss. Females also share this coloration.
Adult male Blunthead wrasses have a rainbow appearance to them with a bright red body as well as blue, green, yellow on their anterior region. As juveniles, these fishes have an orange body with white tiger stripes or spots on their back. Their tails and fins have a black outline. The Lyretail or Moon Wrasse Thalassoma Lunare have a blue lower body with a black spot in the middle, as well as a black splotch on their caudal fin base.
The Humphead Wrasse is a gigantic fish that can reach 3 feet in length. In fact, they are the largest species in the family Labridae. Male humphead wrasse fish are known to be vibrant blue to green, purple-ish blue, or dull-blue green in color.
Female specimens are orangey-red with spectacular facial markings. In larger males, the hump becomes extremely prominent and takes on a bright blue color. Cirrhilabrus species common name is fairy wrasse are among the most colorful varieties of wrasse. They are a stunning palette of pastel pink, yellow, and orange.
During courtship, males display even brighter color intensity. Bluestreak Cleaner wrasse are a iridescent azure color with black streaks along their body hence their name! Bluestreak Cleaner wrasse even clean the inside of mouths and gills on larger fishes, which is certainly a brave task considering they only reach 5.
There are many species in the family Labridae, all of which have different colors, sizes, and personalities. So you are spoilt for options when it comes to choosing a wrasse for your marine aquarium.
They are very colorful and interesting to watch , making them a great choice for any reef aquarium. However, these fishes can be quite aggressive towards other fish, so their tankmates need to be selected carefully. The first captive-bred wrasse was the Bluestreak Wrasse, and the second was the Melanurus Wrasse. A good number of wrasse species are an excellent choice for those new to keeping fish due to their hardiness.
Marine aquariums are more challenging to run and maintain than freshwater or cold water tanks. Some wrasse species are hardy and relatively easy to take care of, while some are a little more challenging. Leopard wrasses are prone to stress and sickness, making them a bit more demanding in terms of care.
Cleaner varieties of wrasse like Bluestreak wrasses are notoriously hard to feed as they cannot eat large amounts of food. Wrasses live anywhere from 3 to 30 years , which is quite a notable difference in lifespan! The Humphead Wrasse can live for up to 30 years, while Fairy Wrasse species usually only live for between 3 and 5 years.
Many types of wrasse are hardy and robust when given good care, but some species like Leopard Wrasses and Bluestreak Wrasses are quite sensitive and can die easily in a home aquarium. Fish from the Labridiae family need a well-balanced diet packed with meaty foods in order to thrive. A lot of smaller wrasses follow the feeding trails of larger wrasses and other fishes, feeding on invertebrates disturbed in the process. In captivity, wrasses should be fed bite-sized pieces of meaty foods such as frozen or fresh seafood, live or frozen mysis, and brine shrimp, live ghost and grass shrimp, and live black worms.
Cleaner species of wrasse mostly eat small invertebrates and parasitic copepods in the wild. They are a bit more challenging to feed in captivity as they cannot eat a huge amount of food in one sitting. Cleaner varieties should be fed small portions of fresh, meaty foods multiple times a day. Offer them foods like mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, fish flake food, and pellets.
The best food for wrasses includes live or frozen mysis and brine shrimp, live blackworms, live ghost and grass shrimp, and fish flake food and pellets. You can feed wrasses simply by adding their food be it ghost shrimp, brine shrimp, fish flakes, etc. Smaller wrasses species will need to have their food chopped up so it can fit inside their tiny mouths. One of the 90's will have a 4 inch sand bed for the radiant and melanurus wrasses and my jawfish.
Scott's followed by Mystery in my experience. Make sure you only have one super terminal male in each of the tanks. Having had 7 wrasse of which six were fairy's in my tank including a mystery and supermale Rhomboid I found the best way to keep aggression down was by feeding the tank very heavily.
As if I had a tank full of Anthias. Originally Posted by Urchinhead. Maybe I'll just go without the Scott's wrasse. If I do get one I'll put him in the where there are more fish to spread the aggression. Thanks for the good info guys! Any pics? I have found that getting a group of 3 or more young wrasses and letting them form their own group will allow for heavier stocking with less agression.
Be familiar with the species your buying and know the difference between a female, male, and a non dominant male coloration. I suggest you remove the scotts and labouti because of agression. Also be aware of the possums criptic nature, they are a very interesting fish. Current Tank Info: Currently Tankless. For all those experienced wrasse keepers out there. I was wondering what you think is the best way to introduce new wrasse's to each other is?
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